BC & SE ALASKA (AK-1): THE BEGINNING - NORTHBOUND PUGET SOUND & VANCOUVER ISLAND
Friday, May 27- Leaving Everett
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Under cloudy skies and cooler temperatures that are appropriate for this season in the Pacific Northwest, the lines were cast at 1100 hours and the slip in Everett was left. The slip was sublet to nice couple that kept their boat at the dry-land marina up the Snohomish River and they already know many of the boats around us. Leaving was uneventful. Gretchen stood out on her cockpit and waved good-bye. Clarice is going to watch the mail and the Prius and Travis has the truck. Our paid work required few hours to finish the last project and this could happen at our island cabin on Hat Island.
The first stop was Hat Island to spend the Memorial Day Weekend with family and friends. There were a few items to store at the island cabin, some items and tools to get, a few summer maintenance items to do at the cabin and a small project to add a shelf to Tribute’s freezer was on the list. The weather for the next three days was breezy, cloudy and with periods of rain. This was not the ideal travel weather and being at Hat Island was a perfect start. Sunday, May 29 - Hat Island Every time we begin a big trip there is some anxiety because there are always a hundred or so reasons not to go and that list weighs heavier as the starting day gets nearer: meetings, concerts, and events that will be missed, friends who are sick and need support, projects that will not be worked on, and desires that will be delayed. Then there are the doubts, those thoughts that keep you awake at night and can be seen in the faces of those who question the wisdom the trip: Are you really prepared? Do you have the skills and abilities? Do you have the right information? Is the boat really ready and are you ready for a mechanical breakdown? It would be easier, to stay; to not go and be comfortable with what you have and what you are. The talk is only about the plan for the next day because it is easier than always living in the big picture. Tribute needs to fuel up with about 450 gallons. Everett’s price was $2.61 a gallon, Anacortes was the likely destination and has a price of $2.47 but Brad, a longtime friend who is usually seen at the island on the holiday weekends, spoke about Oak Harbor and their low price. An Internet check showed that Oak Harbor Marina’s price was under $2 a gallon. Monday, May 30 - To Shaw Island, San Juan Islands A fresh breeze blew out the clouds, drizzle and brought in the warm sunshine. Good-byes were shared with the family and friends at Hat Island and Tribute glided out of the small and tight marina at 1100 hours. We turned west and headed up Saratoga Passage that is between Whidbey and Camano Islands with the trawler finding its sweet spot of 8 knots at 1900 RPMs. The water was nearly dead flat with only the slightest breeze coming from the west. The ride was only occasionally disturbed by the boats returning to their homeport. The destination was Oak Harbor Marina as the diesel price $1.93 a gallon with the possibility of other discounts was confirmed. Why the low price? The marina boldly advertises that they want boaters to come and the fuel price is one of the enticements. We were happy to support it. The fuel dock is at the base of the marina and is a tight fit for a 40-foot trawler but with no wind and no current, backing into a starboard tie was easy. Tribute took 442 gallons. The trawler has a capacity of 670 gallons and filling the two tanks would probably last about a 1/3 of the trip. The low flow pump could push 12 gallons a minute and we wanted to make the slack current at Deception Pass that was predicted to occur at 5 PM. The employee suggested that two hoses be used, one for each tank. This was a first for us but it worked nicely. Tribute does not have a fuel gauge in the pilothouse, rather there are sight glasses outside each of the stainless steel tanks that accurately shows the fuel level. Laurie watched the sight glasses for the final gallons. Shopping for price saved over $300 from getting fuel in Everett; competition pays off for everyone. Tribute was about 15 minutes late to the slack before the flood at Deception Pass. Meaning, that after 5 PM, we should be fighting the incoming current that would accelerate and be more and more powerful. However, the water was still ebbing at about a half a knot and with the flat wind, the afternoon passage and crossing Rosario Strait was easy and uneventful. Perhaps, we place too much value into predictions, those mathematical formulas using the best data and models possible. Maybe it is global warming, or maybe King Neptune decided to just mess with the published predications; but they were wrong. One of the boating axioms in the Pacific Northwest is "power-boating in the morning and sailing in the afternoon" because the wind reliable picks up in the afternoon. But not today, 6 PM and Tribute is enjoying the long spring day where the sun is high in the sky and the Strait of Juan de Fuca is completely flat. Laurie typically picks three destinations, close, far and in-between and we choose based on the sea conditions, weather, ease of approach and fatigue. Today, Spencer Spit State Park on the eastern shore of Lopez Island was too close, Fisherman’s Bay on the western side of Lopez Island was considered until the tide was not just high enough for this curvy and shallow channel. Parks Bay is on Shaw Island and is just north of Friday Harbor and was chosen. There was no reason to go to a marina and Parks Bay was new us. The anchor was dropped in 15 feet of water near the head of the bay with seven boats around us. The cell phone service was fine as we talked with Travis and Laurie created a splendid simple dinner of grilled cheese sandwiches, soup and sliced tomatoes. The evening was closed with a hand of gin rummy and music on the Sirius XM radio. Tribute had traveled 61 miles. |
Tuesday, May 31-to Galiano Island, British Columbia
This was the last morning for at least two weeks to enjoy the data plan that is the connection to the world outside of Tribute. Emails were created, answered, and the website was updated. Under sunny skies, high wispy clouds and a light breeze from the west, Tribute’s anchor was pulled at 0945 hours and at the mouth of Parks Bay was a research vessel that was serving as a floating classroom for about 15 students who were clad in the bright orange personal floatation devices.
San Juan Channel was nearly empty of boats. The AIS provided the first indication with a long colored line emerging from the bottom of the screen of the rapidly approaching ferry that was coming up on our stern. At 17 knots, it was overtaking Tribute quickly and we steered to the starboard to give it a wide berth. Rule #3: Never try to outrun or cut in front of a ferry.
The currents in the San Juan Islands are both entertaining and unpredictable. Entertaining in the sense that they are not dangerous and can quickly change the direction of the boat that can create a feeling of being on an amusement ride. Unpredictable because the swirling and colliding currents are often not marked on a chart and are caused by the millions of gallons of water being pulled as they ebb or flood over and around undersea mountains and valleys. In 3 miles, the currents pushed Tribute .8 knots faster and held it back by 2 knots.
As the border of Canada was approached, Laurie announced that she was disconnected from the grid as she turned off her phone. Canadian data plans can be expensive if there is no pre-planning. Our approach is have a supplemental monthly plan for John’s phone, which would provide data to the iPad and two laptops and for Laurie’s phone, a supplemental daily rate of $2 that would allow access to our normal data plan if she needed it. Being off the grid would mean only the occasional use of email, surfing the web, and reading Facebook.
Boundary Pass is wide and long separates the two countries. Why is it that westbound freighter, an eastbound sailboat and a northbound trawler will magically meet at the same place and require evasive maneuvers?
Clearing Customs is the only reason for Tribute to go to Pender Island’s Bedwell Harbor and is something that requires preparation and planning. We have done this many times and each experience is different. Sometimes it is done all by phone, sometimes the boat is boarded, sometimes vegetables and fruit are allowed and sometimes we have to leave them in the nearby dumpster. Today would be no different.
The Custom’s Dock was empty and after tying up, the patrol boat used by the border police was parked at the head of the ramp. Inside the small building, two officers asked a quick set of questions and then instructed me to use the phone on the outside to finish the clearance procedures. When you provide short and clear answers, do not volunteer information, and just be honest, direct and leave out the editorial comments, the process goes faster and smoother.
After the phone conversation, the officers asked me to come back into the office where they asked for the clearance number and then verified the information on the screen with their own questions that focused on tobacco that included marijuana, firearms and the quantity of alcohol. There was the dance of questions, answers, and clarifying questions to test for truthfulness. The officers were not rude and were professional but they were clearly skeptical and suspicious. I never volunteer that I retired from a three-decade career in policing but when asked and probed, they get honesty. Their skepticism melted away and the air of suspicion evaporated. The question about having firearms came up again; no, I am not that stupid. Were they checking again to see if there was a gun brought in to their country? You decide. The officers volunteered that they are constantly lied to, which is probably the cause of the skepticism and suspicion. They have an impossible job and my hat is off to them for their dedication.
30 minutes after arriving, Tribute was away from the dock, turned to the north and up Swanson Channel to Trincomali Channel and the stories of exploring these islands in other boats that happened to many years before were retold.
Once again, AIS gave us notice of the BC Ferry that was barreling down on our stern at 21 knots. A quick radio conversation with their bridge deck gave us the directions we need to give them ample room as the ferry set up to turn into the narrow and double turns of Active Pass. This westbound ferry for Vancouver met the eastbound ferry at the narrowest part of Active Pass and we watched it all unfold on the AIS.
The destination was Montague Harbor on Galiano Island to meet up with Ken and Pauline and their Cutwater 28 who approach cruising and share the same trip goals as us. Tribute turned to the east at Julia Point and entered Payne Bay that continues northward into Montague Harbor. This is large harbor with a flock of mooring buoys on the north end, private buoys on the south end and ample space for anchoring between them. This place can be very busy in July and August.
The anchor was dropped in 39 feet and after the dingy was lowered off the roof, did the distinctive profile of a Cutwater 28 with the unique tope colored hull of Ken and Pauline’s Shipperly come into view. Tribute had traveled 31 miles in 4 hours.
Ken and Pauline took a nearby mooring buoy and we were all anxious to renew the friendship that started 19 months earlier on the Tenn-Tom Waterway where Alabama meets Mississippi and where we cruised together for three weeks. They watched us end our Great Loop adventure and they continued on to finish their own.
The afternoon and evening was split between the two boats, telling stories, catching up and sharing our hopes, knowledge and expectations about his cruise. We tend to be cruising soloists but Ken and Pauline have such great chemistry that they will make the adventure more enjoyable.
San Juan Channel was nearly empty of boats. The AIS provided the first indication with a long colored line emerging from the bottom of the screen of the rapidly approaching ferry that was coming up on our stern. At 17 knots, it was overtaking Tribute quickly and we steered to the starboard to give it a wide berth. Rule #3: Never try to outrun or cut in front of a ferry.
The currents in the San Juan Islands are both entertaining and unpredictable. Entertaining in the sense that they are not dangerous and can quickly change the direction of the boat that can create a feeling of being on an amusement ride. Unpredictable because the swirling and colliding currents are often not marked on a chart and are caused by the millions of gallons of water being pulled as they ebb or flood over and around undersea mountains and valleys. In 3 miles, the currents pushed Tribute .8 knots faster and held it back by 2 knots.
As the border of Canada was approached, Laurie announced that she was disconnected from the grid as she turned off her phone. Canadian data plans can be expensive if there is no pre-planning. Our approach is have a supplemental monthly plan for John’s phone, which would provide data to the iPad and two laptops and for Laurie’s phone, a supplemental daily rate of $2 that would allow access to our normal data plan if she needed it. Being off the grid would mean only the occasional use of email, surfing the web, and reading Facebook.
Boundary Pass is wide and long separates the two countries. Why is it that westbound freighter, an eastbound sailboat and a northbound trawler will magically meet at the same place and require evasive maneuvers?
Clearing Customs is the only reason for Tribute to go to Pender Island’s Bedwell Harbor and is something that requires preparation and planning. We have done this many times and each experience is different. Sometimes it is done all by phone, sometimes the boat is boarded, sometimes vegetables and fruit are allowed and sometimes we have to leave them in the nearby dumpster. Today would be no different.
The Custom’s Dock was empty and after tying up, the patrol boat used by the border police was parked at the head of the ramp. Inside the small building, two officers asked a quick set of questions and then instructed me to use the phone on the outside to finish the clearance procedures. When you provide short and clear answers, do not volunteer information, and just be honest, direct and leave out the editorial comments, the process goes faster and smoother.
After the phone conversation, the officers asked me to come back into the office where they asked for the clearance number and then verified the information on the screen with their own questions that focused on tobacco that included marijuana, firearms and the quantity of alcohol. There was the dance of questions, answers, and clarifying questions to test for truthfulness. The officers were not rude and were professional but they were clearly skeptical and suspicious. I never volunteer that I retired from a three-decade career in policing but when asked and probed, they get honesty. Their skepticism melted away and the air of suspicion evaporated. The question about having firearms came up again; no, I am not that stupid. Were they checking again to see if there was a gun brought in to their country? You decide. The officers volunteered that they are constantly lied to, which is probably the cause of the skepticism and suspicion. They have an impossible job and my hat is off to them for their dedication.
30 minutes after arriving, Tribute was away from the dock, turned to the north and up Swanson Channel to Trincomali Channel and the stories of exploring these islands in other boats that happened to many years before were retold.
Once again, AIS gave us notice of the BC Ferry that was barreling down on our stern at 21 knots. A quick radio conversation with their bridge deck gave us the directions we need to give them ample room as the ferry set up to turn into the narrow and double turns of Active Pass. This westbound ferry for Vancouver met the eastbound ferry at the narrowest part of Active Pass and we watched it all unfold on the AIS.
The destination was Montague Harbor on Galiano Island to meet up with Ken and Pauline and their Cutwater 28 who approach cruising and share the same trip goals as us. Tribute turned to the east at Julia Point and entered Payne Bay that continues northward into Montague Harbor. This is large harbor with a flock of mooring buoys on the north end, private buoys on the south end and ample space for anchoring between them. This place can be very busy in July and August.
The anchor was dropped in 39 feet and after the dingy was lowered off the roof, did the distinctive profile of a Cutwater 28 with the unique tope colored hull of Ken and Pauline’s Shipperly come into view. Tribute had traveled 31 miles in 4 hours.
Ken and Pauline took a nearby mooring buoy and we were all anxious to renew the friendship that started 19 months earlier on the Tenn-Tom Waterway where Alabama meets Mississippi and where we cruised together for three weeks. They watched us end our Great Loop adventure and they continued on to finish their own.
The afternoon and evening was split between the two boats, telling stories, catching up and sharing our hopes, knowledge and expectations about his cruise. We tend to be cruising soloists but Ken and Pauline have such great chemistry that they will make the adventure more enjoyable.
Wednesday, June 1 to Nanaimo, BC
The morning was calm, cool and partly cloudy. The departure time was determined by the slack current at Dodd Narrows, where Vancouver Island and the tiny Mudge Island are about an 1/8 of a mile apart. The predicted slack before the flooding current was at 2 PM. Being about 20 miles away, Tribute needed about 2 ½ hours to get there. Being earlier would be better because until the slack, the current would be going in our direction to Nanaimo.
With several hours of downtime before leaving, the generator was started to do a load of laundry, charge batteries, and heat water. The Splendide washer/dryer combo displayed a fault code that the manual or the Internet could solve. A five-minute phone call to their customer service line and a real conversation with a knowledgeable technician revealed that the washer/dryer did not like sharing generator power with other appliances. With the battery charger off, the washer/dryer was happy and did a load in about 90 minutes.
The anchor was pulled at 1030 hours and Tribute went north keeping Galiano and Gabriola Islands on the starboard side. Approaching Dodd Narrows at 1:30 PM, 14 boats were waiting to transit northbound and 6 were waiting on the other side to go southbound. Transiting the narrows is easy when the current is slow and only one boat at time. Skippers call on the VHF that they are entering and therefore the on-coming boats would wait. Tribute’s transit of Dodd Narrows was uneventful and there was no change of speed even though we were 25 minutes before the predicted slack.
The destination was Nanaimo and Mark Bay that is protected by Newcastle Island. Nanaimo is a busy city of 83,000 with a mix of vibrant industrial, business and residential activity. Boat traffic and float planes made a busy harbor. Mark Bay and Newcastle Island is a First Nations jurisdiction and the native people administer the dock and a huge mooring field that was nearly empty. There is no anchoring in Mark Bay but the boundary between it and Nanaimo is marked with buoys and there were many vessels anchored west of the boundary line. Tribute took a mooring buoy near Ken and Pauline’s Shipperly and four more boats arrived shortly thereafter.
Tribute had traveled 29 nautical miles.
Nearby, was the former Zuma, a Ranger 29 tug that was one of the first Ranger 29’s and introduced us to this model that we eventually owned. Now, this tug is in the charter fleet out of Anacortes and was being used by a couple from Eastern Oregon who did not recognize the power of being part of the Ranger Tug family.
Ken rowed all of us to shore for a walk on Newcastle Island and we enjoyed the views and the geese. The afternoon was breezy, low clouds and brief periods of light rain. Later, we had dock-tails in Tribute’s cockpit, talked about the predicted current and the wind forecast, and made plans for the 51-mile cruise to Comox. The harbormaster came around and collected the $14 mooring fee.
With several hours of downtime before leaving, the generator was started to do a load of laundry, charge batteries, and heat water. The Splendide washer/dryer combo displayed a fault code that the manual or the Internet could solve. A five-minute phone call to their customer service line and a real conversation with a knowledgeable technician revealed that the washer/dryer did not like sharing generator power with other appliances. With the battery charger off, the washer/dryer was happy and did a load in about 90 minutes.
The anchor was pulled at 1030 hours and Tribute went north keeping Galiano and Gabriola Islands on the starboard side. Approaching Dodd Narrows at 1:30 PM, 14 boats were waiting to transit northbound and 6 were waiting on the other side to go southbound. Transiting the narrows is easy when the current is slow and only one boat at time. Skippers call on the VHF that they are entering and therefore the on-coming boats would wait. Tribute’s transit of Dodd Narrows was uneventful and there was no change of speed even though we were 25 minutes before the predicted slack.
The destination was Nanaimo and Mark Bay that is protected by Newcastle Island. Nanaimo is a busy city of 83,000 with a mix of vibrant industrial, business and residential activity. Boat traffic and float planes made a busy harbor. Mark Bay and Newcastle Island is a First Nations jurisdiction and the native people administer the dock and a huge mooring field that was nearly empty. There is no anchoring in Mark Bay but the boundary between it and Nanaimo is marked with buoys and there were many vessels anchored west of the boundary line. Tribute took a mooring buoy near Ken and Pauline’s Shipperly and four more boats arrived shortly thereafter.
Tribute had traveled 29 nautical miles.
Nearby, was the former Zuma, a Ranger 29 tug that was one of the first Ranger 29’s and introduced us to this model that we eventually owned. Now, this tug is in the charter fleet out of Anacortes and was being used by a couple from Eastern Oregon who did not recognize the power of being part of the Ranger Tug family.
Ken rowed all of us to shore for a walk on Newcastle Island and we enjoyed the views and the geese. The afternoon was breezy, low clouds and brief periods of light rain. Later, we had dock-tails in Tribute’s cockpit, talked about the predicted current and the wind forecast, and made plans for the 51-mile cruise to Comox. The harbormaster came around and collected the $14 mooring fee.
Thursday, June 2 - to Comox, BC
The breeze was brisk at 0700 hours and there were thoughts of delaying the departure time. After all, we had memories of leaving Nanaimo in the our Ranger 25, Laurie Ann and having the Strait of Georgia force us back with 3 to 5 foot swells and that significant emotional event would be the source of a mild anxiousness the whole day. At 8 AM, the wind abated and the bay was calm. The wind app, Sailfo, showed the southeast wind in the Strait was diminishing. At 8:30 AM, Tribute was released from the mooring buoy, idled out of the mooring field, followed the channel markers around the west side of Newcastle Island, past the marinas and the BC ferry terminal and out into the Strait of Georgia.
The first decision was about which route to take to avoid a huge active military training zone called Whiskey-Golf. Both Canadian and U.S. Navies use this training zone. One option was to join the line of pleasure craft, that were two miles away and heading west and up the Strait and were using the Whiskey-Golf boundary line on the charts as their route. That option made the route more offshore and out of the protection from wind that the mountains on Vancouver Island and the small islands could provide. The shoreline option was chosen which would mean making slight route adjustments to avoid the islands.
As it turned out, that decision worked very well as the sea conditions and the wind direction and speed would change in 51 miles and 7 hours. After Entrance Island, a 1 to 2 foot wind chop was pushing on Tribute’s starboard stern corner. At the Winchelsea Islands, the light southern breeze intensified to 12 knots. At Parksville, with snow-capped mountain peaks to the south, the ebb tide pulled Tribute to the north. At Qualicum Beach, the southerly winds climbed to a sustained 15 knots due to a gap in the mountain range and caused a 1 to 3 foot high wind chop. Changing course to be closer to shore, reduced the amount of distance or fetch for the wind to generate chop, created some wind protection and when the waves were quartered, it made a smoother ride.
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The route took us between Vancouver Island and Denman Island. At the southern end of Denman is a lighthouse on Chrome Island. Tribute was “going with God” with a following sea and the ebb time taking us toward Comox. Before entering Baynes Sound, the water between the shore and Denman Island, were the long strings for nets that were suspended from large buoys and the perimeter was marked with larger markers. Not paying attention or not taking action could do serious damage.
The current swept us along in the protected waters of Baynes Sound, past the new cable BC ferry, the aqua-culture of growing oysters and the sound opened up to a log storage and raft building operation on the shore and a long point of rocks extending from Denman Island. With Comox in-view from behind Goose Point, we had our first look at the Comox Bar, a narrow but marked and navigable pass that provides a connection to the Strait of Georgia. We would transit this pass to get to Campbell River on the next leg.
Comox has two marinas but Active Captain had reviews on only one, the Comox Harbor Authority. Pauline had called ahead and made reservations for both boats. Comox only has long docks, no slips. We were assigned to G-dock where the fishing boats are. With a brisk wind pushing on us, and a large aluminum ahead, we had one good chance to do it right before the wind would push us off the dock.
Fortunately, 23,000 pounds does not get pushed quickly. A quick turn to the rudder with a surge of power brought the stern in to the dock and then a surge of reverse power stopped the trawler long enough for Laurie to get a mid-line around the heavy rail. But her stretch to get that done caused a slight muscle strain that would annoy her. With bow and stern lines done, we caught Shipperly’s lines.
Tribute had traveled 53 nautical miles in 7 hours.
Comox was the first marina on this trip and cost $55 Canadian a night. Tribute’s overall length is 44 feet and power is an additional $10. While Laurie and Pauline walked to the store to provision, the boats were washed of salt spray and filled with water. We had used about 30 gallons. After dock-tails in Tribute’s protected cockpit, we enjoyed a fine dinner at the Pub by the Bay. The evening was closed with the DVD, the DaVinci Code.
The first decision was about which route to take to avoid a huge active military training zone called Whiskey-Golf. Both Canadian and U.S. Navies use this training zone. One option was to join the line of pleasure craft, that were two miles away and heading west and up the Strait and were using the Whiskey-Golf boundary line on the charts as their route. That option made the route more offshore and out of the protection from wind that the mountains on Vancouver Island and the small islands could provide. The shoreline option was chosen which would mean making slight route adjustments to avoid the islands.
As it turned out, that decision worked very well as the sea conditions and the wind direction and speed would change in 51 miles and 7 hours. After Entrance Island, a 1 to 2 foot wind chop was pushing on Tribute’s starboard stern corner. At the Winchelsea Islands, the light southern breeze intensified to 12 knots. At Parksville, with snow-capped mountain peaks to the south, the ebb tide pulled Tribute to the north. At Qualicum Beach, the southerly winds climbed to a sustained 15 knots due to a gap in the mountain range and caused a 1 to 3 foot high wind chop. Changing course to be closer to shore, reduced the amount of distance or fetch for the wind to generate chop, created some wind protection and when the waves were quartered, it made a smoother ride.
.
The route took us between Vancouver Island and Denman Island. At the southern end of Denman is a lighthouse on Chrome Island. Tribute was “going with God” with a following sea and the ebb time taking us toward Comox. Before entering Baynes Sound, the water between the shore and Denman Island, were the long strings for nets that were suspended from large buoys and the perimeter was marked with larger markers. Not paying attention or not taking action could do serious damage.
The current swept us along in the protected waters of Baynes Sound, past the new cable BC ferry, the aqua-culture of growing oysters and the sound opened up to a log storage and raft building operation on the shore and a long point of rocks extending from Denman Island. With Comox in-view from behind Goose Point, we had our first look at the Comox Bar, a narrow but marked and navigable pass that provides a connection to the Strait of Georgia. We would transit this pass to get to Campbell River on the next leg.
Comox has two marinas but Active Captain had reviews on only one, the Comox Harbor Authority. Pauline had called ahead and made reservations for both boats. Comox only has long docks, no slips. We were assigned to G-dock where the fishing boats are. With a brisk wind pushing on us, and a large aluminum ahead, we had one good chance to do it right before the wind would push us off the dock.
Fortunately, 23,000 pounds does not get pushed quickly. A quick turn to the rudder with a surge of power brought the stern in to the dock and then a surge of reverse power stopped the trawler long enough for Laurie to get a mid-line around the heavy rail. But her stretch to get that done caused a slight muscle strain that would annoy her. With bow and stern lines done, we caught Shipperly’s lines.
Tribute had traveled 53 nautical miles in 7 hours.
Comox was the first marina on this trip and cost $55 Canadian a night. Tribute’s overall length is 44 feet and power is an additional $10. While Laurie and Pauline walked to the store to provision, the boats were washed of salt spray and filled with water. We had used about 30 gallons. After dock-tails in Tribute’s protected cockpit, we enjoyed a fine dinner at the Pub by the Bay. The evening was closed with the DVD, the DaVinci Code.
Friday, June 3 - Comox, BC
The predicted stronger wind for the early morning did not materialize until later and came in time to validate yesterday’s decision to stay in port. The 20-knot south wind would remain constant throughout much of the day. A time for the second cup of coffee, pancakes with blueberries, laundry and a long walk in town. Comox is about in the middle of Vancouver Island’s eastern shore and seems to be a retirement community as evidenced by the many seniors, medical services have a dominate presence in downtown, and the small mall has a scooter business. The town has a nice golf course in the middle of it and the residential area has mid-size homes in good condition and newer condos and townhouses with more on the way.
There is some activity on the fishing boats near Tribute. A few are getting cleaned and being prepared. The skippers of fishing boats can handle their boats with great skill and precision and are nearly fearless in their attitude. Late in the day, a 40-foot aluminum hull fishing boat came into the marina and there was one place available that was between two boats. The skipper expertly paralleled parked it using one engine and no bow thruster.
Laurie and Pauline took the bus to tour Comox and to go to nearby Courtenay. Ken and I were invited but politely bowed out when browsing and a museum dominated the agenda. By mid-afternoon the wind started to subside, was calm by dinnertime and had changed direction to the northwest. Laurie and Pauline came back with their stories and purchases and we shared these in the cockpit of Shipperly. Tomorrow’s cruising plan was discussed. The moon’s phase is causing an extreme of tides that is causing stronger currents. The travel window opens at 11:30 AM when the current starts to change and the wind forecast is light but will coming on us. Campbell River is the destination, about 30 nautical miles away, and Pauline will research the three marina options and make a reservation tomorrow.
Dinner was grilled chicken and corn on the cob on the BBQ. The evening was closed with catching up on the email and Internet connections and remotely doing some of the business of living.
The predicted stronger wind for the early morning did not materialize until later and came in time to validate yesterday’s decision to stay in port. The 20-knot south wind would remain constant throughout much of the day. A time for the second cup of coffee, pancakes with blueberries, laundry and a long walk in town. Comox is about in the middle of Vancouver Island’s eastern shore and seems to be a retirement community as evidenced by the many seniors, medical services have a dominate presence in downtown, and the small mall has a scooter business. The town has a nice golf course in the middle of it and the residential area has mid-size homes in good condition and newer condos and townhouses with more on the way.
There is some activity on the fishing boats near Tribute. A few are getting cleaned and being prepared. The skippers of fishing boats can handle their boats with great skill and precision and are nearly fearless in their attitude. Late in the day, a 40-foot aluminum hull fishing boat came into the marina and there was one place available that was between two boats. The skipper expertly paralleled parked it using one engine and no bow thruster.
Laurie and Pauline took the bus to tour Comox and to go to nearby Courtenay. Ken and I were invited but politely bowed out when browsing and a museum dominated the agenda. By mid-afternoon the wind started to subside, was calm by dinnertime and had changed direction to the northwest. Laurie and Pauline came back with their stories and purchases and we shared these in the cockpit of Shipperly. Tomorrow’s cruising plan was discussed. The moon’s phase is causing an extreme of tides that is causing stronger currents. The travel window opens at 11:30 AM when the current starts to change and the wind forecast is light but will coming on us. Campbell River is the destination, about 30 nautical miles away, and Pauline will research the three marina options and make a reservation tomorrow.
Dinner was grilled chicken and corn on the cob on the BBQ. The evening was closed with catching up on the email and Internet connections and remotely doing some of the business of living.
Saturday, June 4 - to Campbell River, BC
With a high-pressure system over the area, the sky was clear blue, the winds were still and the morning was warm with the promise to be warmer. At Comox, the current would not be slack into 1130 hours, then it would move to the northwest and toward today’s destination of Campbell River. The morning was easy, walking and talking, vacuuming Tribute and meeting another Alaska-bound sailing couple, Greg and Michelle who were from Everett and members of the Mill Town Sailing Association.
Ken and Pauline pulled away from the dock and Tribute was close behind. An outbound fishing boat was apparently on autopilot with no one looking forward as it came right at Shipperly without changing course or speed. Ken had to slow and turn to stay clear and though it was not a close call, it was still unnerving.
Tribute proceeded southwest to the marked Comox Bar and as the first buoy was approached, the depth quickly changed from triple digits to 8 feet. After the third buoy, the depths resumed to the normal 200 to 400 depth. Turning to the northwest at Cape Lazo, the wind-caused chop was one to two feet but was comfortable when quartered. Cape Lazo is the starting point where the currents are dominated by the water coming from the north end of Vancouver Island. For the next 20 miles, the water was nearly smooth with only a light wind and the mild current was pulling us toward Campbell River.
All of that would soon change.
Shipperly was leading and announced the presence of large current line a few miles from Cape Mudge, the point of Quadra Island, meaning the water was greatly disturbed by collision of two currents and these are seen when the current is changing. When Tribute went through the disturbance, the speed was dropped by nearly 4 knots. After the second strong current line of ripples and swirls, Laurie checked the current predictions and we had missed an important piece of information: at Campbell River the current was at its maximum of 7.4 knots and the slack was 3.5 hours away.
Soon, Tribute was only moving at 1.6 knots. In the distance on the starboard side, the water looked calmer and there were fishing boats and moving through it. We headed away from the visible current and soon our speed was increasing. Current is always faster in the middle, less on the edges and often times, there is an eddy current or reverse current on the very edges, like when two hands rub together. Near the lighthouse, Tribute was making 8 knots even though a ¼ mile away, the current was 7 knots in the opposite direction. This was all hand steering as the changes were too quick and dramatic for the autopilot to keep up. There is a lot of current here, more so than about anywhere we had been.
Pauline and Laurie had picked the Coast Discovery Marina from the three options. Tribute was following the shoreline that was farthest from the marina. After passing it, we turned into the current to cross Discovery Passage and let the current move us sideways and the entrance between the two buoys and missing the BC ferry was perfectly done. Ken and Pauline went on to Discovery Marina’s fuel dock.
Coast Discovery Marina has long side-tie dock for transients and there was one large boat near the end. Docking would be interesting to miss the boat, turn into the dock and slow down even through the 11 knot wind was pushing on Tribute’s stern. It was all done without incident and when the trawler was eased back, there was ample room for Shipperly.
In Tribute’s cockpit to find shade on this very warm afternoon, we toasted to the currents at Campbell River and shared today’s stories with a beer. Then we had fish and chips at the nearby dockside restaurant.
Ken and Pauline pulled away from the dock and Tribute was close behind. An outbound fishing boat was apparently on autopilot with no one looking forward as it came right at Shipperly without changing course or speed. Ken had to slow and turn to stay clear and though it was not a close call, it was still unnerving.
Tribute proceeded southwest to the marked Comox Bar and as the first buoy was approached, the depth quickly changed from triple digits to 8 feet. After the third buoy, the depths resumed to the normal 200 to 400 depth. Turning to the northwest at Cape Lazo, the wind-caused chop was one to two feet but was comfortable when quartered. Cape Lazo is the starting point where the currents are dominated by the water coming from the north end of Vancouver Island. For the next 20 miles, the water was nearly smooth with only a light wind and the mild current was pulling us toward Campbell River.
All of that would soon change.
Shipperly was leading and announced the presence of large current line a few miles from Cape Mudge, the point of Quadra Island, meaning the water was greatly disturbed by collision of two currents and these are seen when the current is changing. When Tribute went through the disturbance, the speed was dropped by nearly 4 knots. After the second strong current line of ripples and swirls, Laurie checked the current predictions and we had missed an important piece of information: at Campbell River the current was at its maximum of 7.4 knots and the slack was 3.5 hours away.
Soon, Tribute was only moving at 1.6 knots. In the distance on the starboard side, the water looked calmer and there were fishing boats and moving through it. We headed away from the visible current and soon our speed was increasing. Current is always faster in the middle, less on the edges and often times, there is an eddy current or reverse current on the very edges, like when two hands rub together. Near the lighthouse, Tribute was making 8 knots even though a ¼ mile away, the current was 7 knots in the opposite direction. This was all hand steering as the changes were too quick and dramatic for the autopilot to keep up. There is a lot of current here, more so than about anywhere we had been.
Pauline and Laurie had picked the Coast Discovery Marina from the three options. Tribute was following the shoreline that was farthest from the marina. After passing it, we turned into the current to cross Discovery Passage and let the current move us sideways and the entrance between the two buoys and missing the BC ferry was perfectly done. Ken and Pauline went on to Discovery Marina’s fuel dock.
Coast Discovery Marina has long side-tie dock for transients and there was one large boat near the end. Docking would be interesting to miss the boat, turn into the dock and slow down even through the 11 knot wind was pushing on Tribute’s stern. It was all done without incident and when the trawler was eased back, there was ample room for Shipperly.
In Tribute’s cockpit to find shade on this very warm afternoon, we toasted to the currents at Campbell River and shared today’s stories with a beer. Then we had fish and chips at the nearby dockside restaurant.
Sunday to Tuesday, June 5 to 7 - Campbell River - Waiting for a weather window
The peace of the night was broken at least four times by huge swells rolling into the marina that would roll Tribute enough to cause the fenders to act like a clapper on a bell, the hull was the bell and we were inside of it. Ships transiting Seymour Narrows likely caused the huge swells. The morning was bright blue with a light wind and temperatures in the low 70’s.
We gathered for a planning meeting to share information and to learn about our comfort levels. The winds and currents were going to be the heaviest influence on the decision. Environment Canada had issued a gale warning for Johnstone Strait for Sunday, Sunday night, Monday and Tuesday. What was maddening is that the wind prediction apps did not agree and their speed predictions were half of the government’s. Serious discussion was about leaving at noon, at the slack current, and going the “back route” around Quadra and Cortes Islands that would cut out Seymour Narrows and about half of Johnstone Strait. Transiting three rapids at their slack would be do-able and finding anchorage to be shielded from the rising northwest wind could be done.
But those were set aside when the end result would be same as staying in Campbell River for two more nights: we would be at Port McNeil at about the same time. When the choice was defined as where to wait when the winds determined it was a no-travel day, everyone agreed to stay but to change marinas for more protection. Nearby Discovery Harbour Marina was slightly more in cost but was totally protected. We moved over about mid-day and stayed on G-dock, sharing the cost of the daily Wi-Fi, got a loaner 50 to 30 amp power, and settled in.
For the next three days, we did minor boat projects of cleaning, monthly scheduled maintenance and some minor repairs. Two additional wind apps were downloaded two more wind apps, Predict Wind and Wind Finder, and website, passagemaker, was re-discovered. It has wind and wave predictions that we relied upon for cruising the length of Lake Michigan. More confidence was needed in Environment Canada’s prediction.
We walked the docks and met the skipper of 42’ Grand Banks who frequents the Broughtons and Alaska and his advice was to use Predict Wind, watch the wind at Fanny Island that is the only reporting station on Johnstone Strait, and use your own judgment. We got a tour of a Diesel Duck steel trawler, went browsing with Ken and Pauline as they did some shopping, used the folding bikes to go to a museum and told stories and laughed.
The discovery of information, evaluating conditions and making an assessment is part of the adventure. In the app Sailflo, another wind reporting station was found when Fanny Island was zoomed in on. This reporting station verified that Environment Canada was indeed correct with 30 MPH winds, which validated our decision to stay in port.
The peace of the night was broken at least four times by huge swells rolling into the marina that would roll Tribute enough to cause the fenders to act like a clapper on a bell, the hull was the bell and we were inside of it. Ships transiting Seymour Narrows likely caused the huge swells. The morning was bright blue with a light wind and temperatures in the low 70’s.
We gathered for a planning meeting to share information and to learn about our comfort levels. The winds and currents were going to be the heaviest influence on the decision. Environment Canada had issued a gale warning for Johnstone Strait for Sunday, Sunday night, Monday and Tuesday. What was maddening is that the wind prediction apps did not agree and their speed predictions were half of the government’s. Serious discussion was about leaving at noon, at the slack current, and going the “back route” around Quadra and Cortes Islands that would cut out Seymour Narrows and about half of Johnstone Strait. Transiting three rapids at their slack would be do-able and finding anchorage to be shielded from the rising northwest wind could be done.
But those were set aside when the end result would be same as staying in Campbell River for two more nights: we would be at Port McNeil at about the same time. When the choice was defined as where to wait when the winds determined it was a no-travel day, everyone agreed to stay but to change marinas for more protection. Nearby Discovery Harbour Marina was slightly more in cost but was totally protected. We moved over about mid-day and stayed on G-dock, sharing the cost of the daily Wi-Fi, got a loaner 50 to 30 amp power, and settled in.
For the next three days, we did minor boat projects of cleaning, monthly scheduled maintenance and some minor repairs. Two additional wind apps were downloaded two more wind apps, Predict Wind and Wind Finder, and website, passagemaker, was re-discovered. It has wind and wave predictions that we relied upon for cruising the length of Lake Michigan. More confidence was needed in Environment Canada’s prediction.
We walked the docks and met the skipper of 42’ Grand Banks who frequents the Broughtons and Alaska and his advice was to use Predict Wind, watch the wind at Fanny Island that is the only reporting station on Johnstone Strait, and use your own judgment. We got a tour of a Diesel Duck steel trawler, went browsing with Ken and Pauline as they did some shopping, used the folding bikes to go to a museum and told stories and laughed.
The discovery of information, evaluating conditions and making an assessment is part of the adventure. In the app Sailflo, another wind reporting station was found when Fanny Island was zoomed in on. This reporting station verified that Environment Canada was indeed correct with 30 MPH winds, which validated our decision to stay in port.
Wednesday, June 8 - To Port Neville, British Columbia
The weather report from the night before did not provide a clear green light or decisive red light about moving on. We decided to do an assessment in the morning. We were up before the 0545 alarm and found the forecast for Wednesday and Thursday were very close for Johnstone Strait: northwest winds 20 to 25 for Wednesday and increasing to 30 overnight and 15 to 25 for Thursday. The extended forecast for Campbell River was not getting better but the extended forecast areas north was getting better. The winds in the marina were lighter than yesterday. The core issue is wind over current creates rough water. The northwest winds would collide with the ebbing current. It was not an ideal forecast but the question was, “Could we handle it?”
At 0545, we had a meeting with Ken and Pauline in the growing past sunrise light. We elected to go and be ready to get off Johnstone Strait at any number of places that Ken and Laurie had identified. Tribute left at 0630 hours and backed down the long fairway to turn and head out the marina. A 42-foot Kadey Krogen, Tippeecanoe, had come in the day before and it was already gone; a feeling of validation buoyed us.
Slack current at Seymour Narrows was predicted for 0801 hours. Being 7 miles and 90 minutes away, Tribute had to fight the fading current and pace itself accordingly. We were not alone; four fishing boats, two pleasure craft and a 100 foot yacht were all heading to the same place. Coming south, AIS tracked four boats moving through or toward the narrows. Being about ½ mile across, Seymour Narrows is not geographically narrow and boats can easily go both directions. What makes Seymour Narrows interesting is being the dominant place were billions of gallons move to and from the Pacific Ocean.
Tribute went through Seymour Narrows at exactly the slack current at its usual 8 knots and the water was rippled from the 12-knot wind coming down its length. Shipperly was following along, Tippeecanoe was about a mile ahead and over the next 7 miles, and the four fishing boats passed us. To Chatam Point, Tribute was gradually accelerating with the growing ebb tide to a speed of 11.7 knots. The wind over current was creating some white caps that caused some spray on Tribute and more spray on Shipperly.
At Chatam Point, Tribute turned to the west onto Johnstone Strait and the water was nearly flat for several miles. Then, after a slight bend, everyone was slogging through 2 to 3 foot swells and just before the junction with Blind Channel, the wind was 30 knots and there 4 and 5 foot swells. The choice was to remain in Johnstone Strait, go a shorter distance, ride a stronger current but have a more lumpy ride or go up Mayne Passage and Blind Channel and go a longer distance, have less current and probably have a more comfortable ride. As we were not on a schedule, we opted out of the Strait.
A brief screeching sound was heard. A quick check of the gauges, the systems, and all the spaces could not find the cause. Later, one of the auto-inflate personal floatation devices was found inflated. They had been stored in the cockpit for ready use and probably got wet from a stern swell the soaked part of the cockpit. The backup cartridge was located and installed.
Soon, the water was smooth as the mountain on West Thurlow Island gave us protection. The ebbing current slowed us about a knot but was short-lived as Tribute approached the Green Point Rapids were Tribute would be going with the current. The current at Green Point Rapids was 5 knots and there was an itch of reluctance to proceed. However, this was not a normal setting because it was wide, deep and straight. Shipperly had the extra horsepower and could go 15 knots if needed and agreed to go through the rapids first. It as a nothing but assessing and making decision is all part of the adventure.
A radio conversation with Tippeecanoe revealed that Johnstone Strait had calmed down. The option was to continue on Chancellor Channel and connect with the Johnstone Strait or to turn right onto Welbore Channel, continue around Hardwick Island into Sunderland Channel and the rejoin the Strait. Shipperly was in the lead and opted for the later. The water was mostly smooth with some one to two foot swells and a 10-knot wind. Except for an occasional fishing boat and hearing the occasional commercial vessel on channel 71, Tribute and Shipperly were alone.
Johnstone Strait again showed its rough side as Sunderland Channel gave way to the Strait. The wind on the bow was 18 to 22 knots and the swells rose to 3 to 4 footers as we neared Port Neville. A mile up this inlet, the water was calm but the 3-knot current pushed us forward. The wooden municipal dock was full and we elected to continue up the inlet until we were behind a sharp rising mountain.
At 2:30 PM, Tribute anchored in 30 feet of water, passed Tippeecanoe and Shipperly. The Ultra Anchor set quickly in the current and the wind that gusted to 20 knots. Clouds were approaching and rain was in the forecast. The water was rippled but the ride was smooth. After dinner, we felt blessed and lucky to watch a movie while at anchor.
Tribute had traveled 60 miles in 8 hours.
At 0545, we had a meeting with Ken and Pauline in the growing past sunrise light. We elected to go and be ready to get off Johnstone Strait at any number of places that Ken and Laurie had identified. Tribute left at 0630 hours and backed down the long fairway to turn and head out the marina. A 42-foot Kadey Krogen, Tippeecanoe, had come in the day before and it was already gone; a feeling of validation buoyed us.
Slack current at Seymour Narrows was predicted for 0801 hours. Being 7 miles and 90 minutes away, Tribute had to fight the fading current and pace itself accordingly. We were not alone; four fishing boats, two pleasure craft and a 100 foot yacht were all heading to the same place. Coming south, AIS tracked four boats moving through or toward the narrows. Being about ½ mile across, Seymour Narrows is not geographically narrow and boats can easily go both directions. What makes Seymour Narrows interesting is being the dominant place were billions of gallons move to and from the Pacific Ocean.
Tribute went through Seymour Narrows at exactly the slack current at its usual 8 knots and the water was rippled from the 12-knot wind coming down its length. Shipperly was following along, Tippeecanoe was about a mile ahead and over the next 7 miles, and the four fishing boats passed us. To Chatam Point, Tribute was gradually accelerating with the growing ebb tide to a speed of 11.7 knots. The wind over current was creating some white caps that caused some spray on Tribute and more spray on Shipperly.
At Chatam Point, Tribute turned to the west onto Johnstone Strait and the water was nearly flat for several miles. Then, after a slight bend, everyone was slogging through 2 to 3 foot swells and just before the junction with Blind Channel, the wind was 30 knots and there 4 and 5 foot swells. The choice was to remain in Johnstone Strait, go a shorter distance, ride a stronger current but have a more lumpy ride or go up Mayne Passage and Blind Channel and go a longer distance, have less current and probably have a more comfortable ride. As we were not on a schedule, we opted out of the Strait.
A brief screeching sound was heard. A quick check of the gauges, the systems, and all the spaces could not find the cause. Later, one of the auto-inflate personal floatation devices was found inflated. They had been stored in the cockpit for ready use and probably got wet from a stern swell the soaked part of the cockpit. The backup cartridge was located and installed.
Soon, the water was smooth as the mountain on West Thurlow Island gave us protection. The ebbing current slowed us about a knot but was short-lived as Tribute approached the Green Point Rapids were Tribute would be going with the current. The current at Green Point Rapids was 5 knots and there was an itch of reluctance to proceed. However, this was not a normal setting because it was wide, deep and straight. Shipperly had the extra horsepower and could go 15 knots if needed and agreed to go through the rapids first. It as a nothing but assessing and making decision is all part of the adventure.
A radio conversation with Tippeecanoe revealed that Johnstone Strait had calmed down. The option was to continue on Chancellor Channel and connect with the Johnstone Strait or to turn right onto Welbore Channel, continue around Hardwick Island into Sunderland Channel and the rejoin the Strait. Shipperly was in the lead and opted for the later. The water was mostly smooth with some one to two foot swells and a 10-knot wind. Except for an occasional fishing boat and hearing the occasional commercial vessel on channel 71, Tribute and Shipperly were alone.
Johnstone Strait again showed its rough side as Sunderland Channel gave way to the Strait. The wind on the bow was 18 to 22 knots and the swells rose to 3 to 4 footers as we neared Port Neville. A mile up this inlet, the water was calm but the 3-knot current pushed us forward. The wooden municipal dock was full and we elected to continue up the inlet until we were behind a sharp rising mountain.
At 2:30 PM, Tribute anchored in 30 feet of water, passed Tippeecanoe and Shipperly. The Ultra Anchor set quickly in the current and the wind that gusted to 20 knots. Clouds were approaching and rain was in the forecast. The water was rippled but the ride was smooth. After dinner, we felt blessed and lucky to watch a movie while at anchor.
Tribute had traveled 60 miles in 8 hours.
Thursday, June 9 - To Port Hardy, British Columbia
The new day brought a delightful morning of blue skies with puffy clouds on the distant mountains, cool temperatures and a very light breeze. The anchor was pulled at 0730 hours and Tribute headed into Johnstone Strait with the destination of Port McNeil or Port Hardy because Shipperly needed fuel for the next leg into northern British Columbia.
Johnstone Strait was a new and different character; calm, sedate and enjoyable and would remain that way all day. This part of the Strait is like an interstate freeway that everyone has to use with fishing boats, cruise ships on AIS, tugs pulling barges and recreational vessels going in both directions. Tribute rode the west bound ebbing current, “Going with God” for the whole day, cruising between 8 and 10-knots as the winds remained light and variable. There is a lot of moving water because Johnstone Strait is often a mile wide or more and the depth ranged from 700 to 1,600 feet.
The hours slipped by as Tribute glided in the Strait. Laurie pulled information from the five books, excel spreadsheets and interview notes creating options for the coming day.
Johnstone Strait ended near Port McNeil and Tribute continued westward on Broughton Strait and into Queen Charlotte Strait. With Johnstone Strait behind Tribute, a juvenile Minke whale surfaced in front of us and swam past Shipperly near Malcolm Island and opposite of Port McNeil. Everything past Port McNeil was new to us because we had trailered our Ranger 25 Tug to Port McNeil and explored the Broughton Islands and Desolation Sound several years earlier.
Port Hardy was thought to be at the end of the universe. Only the foolhardy would go there and I was initially opposed to using Port Hardy as the jumping off point to cross Queen Charlotte Strait and to go around Cape Caution. Laurie’s research of being the most direct route, is the most commonly used route by cruisers and the good weather forecast convinced me otherwise. Plus, Tribute would be at Port Hardy only two hours after Port McNeil.
Ken and Pauline opted for fuel at Port Hardy and turned into the long bay as Tribute continued on another 9 miles to the Port Alexander bay on Nigei Island. Another Minke whale was seen off of Port Hardy, feeding in the transition zone between the deeper and the shallower water. This was a larger adult and probably was nearly 30 feet long. An eastbound cruise ship was spotted behind the nearby islands.
Then, about 6 Dahl’s porpoises jetted toward Tribute, diving underneath the bow, turning around and jumping the bow wake. They are very distinctive with their white underbelly and while on their small dorsal fin. They darted back and forth from one side of the trawler to the other and entertained us greatly for about 20 minutes before disappearing.
Tribute went the length of Port Alexander to anchor in 50 feet at 4:30 PM and found protection against the late afternoon winds that rose to 15 knots. Shipperly arrived about an hour later. Ken and Pauline rowed over to Tribute for dock-tails and told their story of having rain at Port Hardy. We caught up on the stories from the last two days and talked about the coming trip into northern British Columbia.
Tribute had traveled 68 miles in 9 hours.
Tribute had used about 100 gallons of diesel since Oak Harbor, WA. The fuel use is estimated at 2.3 gallons per hour and 3 miles per gallon.
Johnstone Strait was a new and different character; calm, sedate and enjoyable and would remain that way all day. This part of the Strait is like an interstate freeway that everyone has to use with fishing boats, cruise ships on AIS, tugs pulling barges and recreational vessels going in both directions. Tribute rode the west bound ebbing current, “Going with God” for the whole day, cruising between 8 and 10-knots as the winds remained light and variable. There is a lot of moving water because Johnstone Strait is often a mile wide or more and the depth ranged from 700 to 1,600 feet.
The hours slipped by as Tribute glided in the Strait. Laurie pulled information from the five books, excel spreadsheets and interview notes creating options for the coming day.
Johnstone Strait ended near Port McNeil and Tribute continued westward on Broughton Strait and into Queen Charlotte Strait. With Johnstone Strait behind Tribute, a juvenile Minke whale surfaced in front of us and swam past Shipperly near Malcolm Island and opposite of Port McNeil. Everything past Port McNeil was new to us because we had trailered our Ranger 25 Tug to Port McNeil and explored the Broughton Islands and Desolation Sound several years earlier.
Port Hardy was thought to be at the end of the universe. Only the foolhardy would go there and I was initially opposed to using Port Hardy as the jumping off point to cross Queen Charlotte Strait and to go around Cape Caution. Laurie’s research of being the most direct route, is the most commonly used route by cruisers and the good weather forecast convinced me otherwise. Plus, Tribute would be at Port Hardy only two hours after Port McNeil.
Ken and Pauline opted for fuel at Port Hardy and turned into the long bay as Tribute continued on another 9 miles to the Port Alexander bay on Nigei Island. Another Minke whale was seen off of Port Hardy, feeding in the transition zone between the deeper and the shallower water. This was a larger adult and probably was nearly 30 feet long. An eastbound cruise ship was spotted behind the nearby islands.
Then, about 6 Dahl’s porpoises jetted toward Tribute, diving underneath the bow, turning around and jumping the bow wake. They are very distinctive with their white underbelly and while on their small dorsal fin. They darted back and forth from one side of the trawler to the other and entertained us greatly for about 20 minutes before disappearing.
Tribute went the length of Port Alexander to anchor in 50 feet at 4:30 PM and found protection against the late afternoon winds that rose to 15 knots. Shipperly arrived about an hour later. Ken and Pauline rowed over to Tribute for dock-tails and told their story of having rain at Port Hardy. We caught up on the stories from the last two days and talked about the coming trip into northern British Columbia.
Tribute had traveled 68 miles in 9 hours.
Tribute had used about 100 gallons of diesel since Oak Harbor, WA. The fuel use is estimated at 2.3 gallons per hour and 3 miles per gallon.
Just For Fun
We got Manni, the manatee, in Florida when we did the Great Loop in 2014. For this trip, Laurie found Oscar, the orca, at the museum in Courtenay, BC. Laurie promises that this is not the start of a collection, where the dash of the pilothouse will become a breeding ground for these stuffed critters.
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The Discovery Harbour Marina in Campbell River is where the huge yachts of the rich or famous can be found. One of these had their own door bell.
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Laurie and Pauline are very friendly, outgoing and always engaging in conversation with nearly anyone at a marina, including this fellow.
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A monument, or memorial, a lost piece of art, or perhaps just storing it. The can of beer in the corner may be an offering?
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